Installing a skid steer door from Skid Steer Doors of North America is a model-specific job. Every door is CNC-cut to fit your exact make and model, and the kit ships with the supplied handle, locking latch with keys, hinges, weather seal gasket, nuts, bolts, washers, and printed instructions. Required tools and installation time vary; some kits use existing factory points, while others require drilling and bolting.
That is the short answer. Here is the full picture, so you know exactly what to expect from the moment the box hits your shop floor.
What’s in the Box
Every door we build ships as a complete kit. You should not need a single trip to the hardware store to finish this job.
Here is what you will find when you open the box:
- The door - heavy-duty polycarbonate (Lexan), CNC-cut for your specific make and model
- Handle - mounted-and-ready exterior handle
- Locking latch with keys - lock your cab up at night or on a jobsite
- Hinges - matched to your model-specific door kit
- Weather seal gasket - seals the door against dust, wind, rain, and cold
- All nuts, bolts, and washers - every fastener the install needs
- Printed installation instructions - written for your door, not a generic sheet
This matters more than it sounds. Plenty of sellers ship you a sheet of plastic and wish you luck on the hardware. We build the whole kit because a door without a latch, seal, and correct fasteners is not a door. It is a project. For the full rundown on kit contents, see our guide on whether skid steer doors come with everything to install.
First thing to do when the box arrives: open it, lay the parts out, and check them against the parts list in the instructions. If anything is missing or arrived damaged, call or text us at (800) 781-8000 before you start. We will make it right.
Tools You Need
You likely own everything already. Here is the realistic tool list:
| Tool | What you use it for |
|---|---|
| Socket set or combination wrenches | Hinge and latch bolts |
| Screwdriver | Handle and latch hardware on some models |
| Small level (optional) | Checking door alignment before final tightening |
| A helper (optional) | Holding the door steady while you set the hinges |
Tool requirements vary by exact model. Some kits bolt to existing factory mounting points, while others require drilling and bolting. Follow the printed instructions included for your model, or call or text 1 (800) 781 8000 before installation and we will confirm the required steps.
How Long Does the Install Take?
Plan the job only after reading the instructions for your exact model. Time varies with the required mounting steps, installer experience, and whether a helper is available to hold the door while the hinges are positioned.
This is not a dealer job. You do not need a service appointment, a shop lift, or a technician’s hourly rate. Most owners can complete the work themselves after reviewing the model-specific instructions. Some installations require drilling and bolting, so confirm the required tools before starting or call or text 1 (800) 781 8000.
Step-by-Step: The Install at a Glance
The printed instructions in your box are the authority for your specific model. The sequence below is only a general outline:
- Unbox and check parts. Lay everything out and match it against the parts list.
- Clean the mounting area. Wipe down the cab opening and mounting points. Clean metal makes for a clean fit.
- Fit the weather seal gasket. Seat it fully so the door closes against a continuous seal.
- Mount the hinges. Use existing mounting points or drill and bolt only where your model-specific instructions direct. Start every bolt by hand before final tightening.
- Hang the door. This is the step where a helper earns their coffee. Snug the bolts, then check the swing.
- Install the latch and handle. Test the latch with the keys before final tightening.
- Final check. Open and close the door a few times. It should swing freely, latch cleanly, and sit tight against the gasket all the way around.
The CNC-cut panel itself does not need trimming to fit, but mounting varies by model: some kits bolt straight on and others require drilling and bolting. If a step in your printed instructions does not match what you see on your machine, stop and call us. Do not force anything. Never cut, weld, or modify a certified ROPS or FOPS structure.
Why a CNC-Cut Door Fits
Every door we make is CNC-cut to the exact geometry of one make and model. The hinge positions, latch location, and edge profile are machined for the correct fit. Mounting varies by exact model: some kits use existing factory points, while others require drilling and bolting. That is the difference between a precision-fit door and a “universal” panel you have to make fit.
Guesswork is where do-it-yourself enclosure projects go wrong. One misplaced hole in a cab post is permanent. Cutting each door for a specific machine takes that guesswork out, which is a big part of why we build a specific door for each machine instead of one door for everybody. You can read more in our guide on why CNC-cut doors fit better.
This holds for older machines too. We build doors for models the OEM dealers gave up on years ago, like the Case 1840 and 1845C. Same complete kit, same precision fit. And if your machine never came with a factory door at all, our door frame kit adds the mounting structure first.
Door Switches and Safety Interlocks
Some machines have factory door switches or safety magnets tied into the machine’s controls. Never bypass or disable them. If your machine has one and you are not sure how your new door works with it, call us at (800) 781-8000 and we’ll walk you through your machine’s setup.
Where the Instructions Live
You get two layers of help, plus a third if you want it:
- Written instructions ship in the box with every door, specific to what you bought.
- A real person answers at (800) 781-8000, Mon-Fri 7am-4pm CST, call or text. If you hit a snag on a Saturday, text us a photo and we will get you sorted.
Hardware questions come up more than door questions, so if you want to understand the parts before the box arrives, our guide to skid steer door hardware covers hinges, latches, and seals in plain language.
After the Install
Run the door through a normal workday, then give the hinge and latch bolts a quick snugness check. Confirm the gasket is still seated all the way around. That is the whole maintenance routine for week one.
From there, you will notice the payoff fast. The enclosure helps regulate cab temperature, so winter mornings and dusty summer afternoons both get easier. And the polycarbonate itself offers protection superior to tempered glass when brush, debris, or a chain decides to come at the cab.
Every door carries our limited lifetime warranty against door failure or breakage: one free replacement for life for the original owner, under normal conditions. Hardware is covered for 3 months. If you ever need to use it, the process starts with the same phone number as everything else.
One more thing while the tools are out: this is the easiest time to add an electric wiper kit. Mounting it during the door install saves you a second setup later, and if you work in rain or snow you will want it.
Quick Answers
Shipping: UPS 3 Day Air, $150 flat, typically 3 business days (not guaranteed). Your door ships as one complete kit.
Made to order: Doors are built per make and model, so double-check your machine’s model before ordering. Not sure what you have? Call or text us a photo of the machine and the data plate.
No factory door? Order the door frame kit along with your door and install the frame first.
Find your door in 30 seconds. Pick your machine’s make and model and see the exact door built for it: [Find Your Door]. Questions? Call or text (800) 781-8000, Mon–Fri 7am–4pm CST.
